Tuesday, January 26, 2010

A show of nature

A member of the surf club asked my surf buddy Chris what he'd missed by not being there on Sunday, and since Chris is gone on another surf trip to the West today, I replied:

You missed an amazing show of nature: totally foggy when we got there, hard to assess the size of the waves, but it looked nice and clean. We paddled out right after another guy did --we caught some fantastic shoulder-to-head high long-ish lefts, and up to a-bit-over-head lefts with a nice, steep wall :D

It was gorgeous when the sun started to rise, barely showing through some thinner parts of fog, profiling the camper van and our cars on the cliff. Then the fog started to thin out and it's just impossible to describe the beauty of the view we had paddling back out after catching a wave: infinite lines showing clearly thanks to the mist climbing off the water, trying to reach the sky...

See my picture in the last page of responses in this thread for a very watered down idea of what it was like (that pic is the shot I posted below, taken after our session, from the cliff, now with more sunlight and a different perspective... also, my camera didn't capture the colors and special light of the moment)

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