This weekend I went surfing with three fantastic guys. They've been surfing here for a long time and they do most of their surf trips in camper vans. What a blast!
On Saturday we surfed Strandhill with strong rip currents and lumpy waves, but if you manage to catch a wave, it was fun! I was surfing with no booties so after catching one really fun wave I went back in --I couldn't feel my feet. My wave was nice and long, kinda fat but with power, and I loved my new fish!! It was a left (my back side), and I was able to cut back without any effort, and to go down the line choosing whether to be at the bottom or the upper part of the wall. I bought a new pair of booties (on top of the two new pairs I had in Dublin!)
On Sat. afternoon and Sunday we surfed Easky. It was nice and mellow. Today I got stoked, catching quite a few waves and manouvreing my little fish with no problem. Oh my god, my surfing level would be so much better if I'd used a similar board years ago!! Anyway, what is done is done, and now it only remains to train outside of the water during the week, and rip it on the weekends :P
Today, the wind was offshore and the waves waist to shoulder high on the average sets. The second session of both days I was exhausted and could barely stand on my board by the end of the session (I've hardly exercised in the last 5 weeks!). Other than surfing, I had a great time hanging out with the guys in their vans and in the local pubs :D
More photos on my Flickr page.
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